Happy New Year! What`s the recommended repair that will last for more than a month or so for the following situation: 1) 1995 Corolla sedan (still under 100,000 miles) 2) Transmission/brake light interlock failed in October, 2009, and Toyota dealer replaced fuses a couple times without success before determining that an electrical switch was bad 3) Switch was replaced and transmission worked fine until mid-December, 2009, when transmission again locked in "Park" 4) Local garage (non-Toyota) replaced fuse again, and repair lasted from garage until next time engine was shut off 5) Toyota garage blamed initial problem on an "aftermarket" cruise control (installed before I acquired the car in 1997), which Toyota garage disconnected? Should a new fuse and replacing the switch again take care of the problem? If not, what could be causing failure (apparently shorting out the switch in addition to blowing fuse?) Thanks.

i have a volkswaggon passat misfireing on me the car was working fine when i last used it but just can`t understand the misfireing now ive ample petrol in the tank an the exhaust as far as i no is ok to.

i have 88 honda accord lxi 73000 mls on it . when in drive sitting at a stop light or just sitting still in gear bad vibration already replaced strut mount bushings top rear of motor

The third rear brakelight is not working on 2007 ford taurus i just purchased is there a fuse i should check or does the light unit need to be replaced. I got on the Ford site and printed off the fuse diagram but don`t recognize a fuse for this light

I have a 5 speed manual (eagle summit wagon mitsubishi) that when in first gear when you engage the clutch out it gear, then when you disengage the clutch it grinds and pops out of gear. But 2nd - 5th and reverse work just fine. what is going on?

I have a 2002 BMW 325. It has 135k miles on it. I have had it in the shop because it feels like it loses power when I`m going up hill and kind of sputters. They said nothing is wrong. Then today on my way to work. It was sputtering again and when I got to work, I heard this loud clicking, that sounds like putting a stick in bicycle spokes while turning the wheel. This only happens when I hit the gas. It almost stalled when I parked and the service engine light came on, but that light has come on and off for months with no reason. The check oil light has come on and off for weeks as well. When I got out of the car it smelled horrible like something was burning....HELP!!!

I have a 1998 Chrysler Intrepid ES with a 3.2 V6.The car starts and then dies. The dealer says the PCM maybe faulty, because they cannot disarm the VTSS,which causes to shut down.The car will start after a while, but once shut off it will die again.I changed the ignition switch and the key tumbler, because if I tug on the key while turning it, it will start for a number od times, but not always .I tried setting the alarm on and off with the key fob and seems to work fine.If I buy a new PCM with updated software will that fix it?Also, my heater display is off, but the controls work.I checked the BCM but it seems fine.One more thing, when the engine will run the tach functions, but if it`s going to die the tach does not move at all.Thanks.

I have a 2007 Altima that the horn has started (5 times in the last 3 hours) beeping while it is not running. I only have 25,000 miles. Nothing that I can find has been left on. The battery life on fob is still 2/3 full. Is this a warning of some sort. I searched the manual and found nothing. What gives?

Chevrolet/Silverado/2000/Auto-transmission/5.3liter/4wheel drive.
Turn on the key. Engine starts for 2 seconds and then dies.

I have passed the visual and emission test portions of my Calif. smog check inspection on my 89 Volvo 240. In order to pass I need to turn off my "check engine" light. How do I go about doing this?